Friday 21 September 2012

Sampling San Francisco's food movement

So I took a fleeting visit to San Francisco for 5 days as I had heard so much about the growing local and sustainable food scene there.  However, whilst I did take the opportunity to catch up with Iso Rabbins from ForageSF and check out one of the bigger farmers markets in San Francisco, my time there actually turned out to be a bit less about food and more about taking some much needed down time after my crazy busy six weeks is South America.

The first two days I was there, I actually spent sleeping and working out the east coast leg of my USA trip.  I took the opportunity to walk around and sample some of the (hundreds of) different restaurants, serving pretty much every cuisine under the sun and another day I actually got my 'tourist' on and checked out some of the quintessential San Fran touristy spots and activities. (NB:  To all the Aussies reading this - locals don't appreciate us shortening it San Fran; it's San Francisco... I learnt that one the hard way too!)  It was nice to take a day out to see, the Golden Gate Bridge, ride a tram, walk Lombard St, the windiest road in SF and check out Fisherman's Wharf, as I've actually not really done all that much 'touristy' stuff on my trip so far.  I also got to spend a lovely day riding around Stanford University and the surrounds with my beautiful friend Erin, who is living in San Francisco right now... and needless to say it was lovely to see her friendly familiar face and hear the comforting Aussie accent!

On the Saturday I was there, I got to check out the Farmers Markets at the Ferry Building, which I believe occur every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday along the wharf area; so very much enjoyed that!  It was quite an 'upmarket' farmers market, which was divided into two key areas; an outside 'pop-up' market stall area selling mostly organic produce such as fruits and vegetables, meats, cheeses and dairy, eggs, breads and fresh flowers and an indoor area which housed a variety of artisanal vendors in more permanent storefronts.  It was really quite gourmet in terms of both the type and cost of food provided there, which in many ways, made it quite exclusive and really only accessible to those who could afford it.  Nonetheless, all the food came from within the local San Francisco Foodshed, which is certainly extremely positive in terms of supporting the local farming community and lowering the food miles (NB:  Foodshed is a term I heard quite a lot on the USA.  Using the 'Watershed' analogy whereby many rivers feed into the one main body of water, as does the food produced in the local SF area, it all comes into the one area being the Ferry Building Farmers Market, for example).

I got to sample some heirloom varieties of the organic peaches, plums and nectarines that are grown specifically to that area of San Francisco, as well as a 'Pluot', which I'm told was a cross between an plum and an apricot.  They were out of this world in terms of their taste, texture and juiciness.  The kind of stone fruit that I've heard my parents talk of when they were kids and could pick them off the trees themselves.  I bought one of each and savoured each and every bite of them...and something tells me I'm not going to be able to enjoy a peach, plum or nectarine until I find one just like it!

Whilst this was quite an upmarket farmers market, I am told there a huge number of farmers markets in the San Francisco area, all of which very considerably in terms of the types, quality and cost of the produce provided.  So I guess there really is something for everyone, providing an alternative to having to buy your fruit and veg (and other staples) through the supermarkets, and instead buying directly from and connecting with the farmers who produced it.

I also took the opportunity to meet up with Iso Rabbins, who is the founder of ForageSF, one night for a drink and slice of pizza at a pop up pizza place (turns out SF are also all over the pop-up restaurants, bars etc).  Not only was it good learn more about ForageSF's projects, it was also great to chat to Iso about some of the triumphs and challenges he's faced along the way in creating and growing the organisation from an idea he had back in 2008.

So what is ForageSF?  Well it is a 'not only for profit' business established to support the growing local food community in SF.  Their key projects are the 'Underground Markets' and 'Wild Kitchen Dinners' with their latest being the establishment of 'Forage Kitchen'.  Their philosophy is very much centered around the idea of growing the local food economy by creating a community of support for small food businesses in the San Francisco district.

The Underground Markets were created out of a desire to share food being created by food entrepreneurs in local communities, with the public, without the cost and delay that result from regulatory hurdles that exist around food production and distribution today.  Iso started the first market in 2009 from the back of a friend's house and today it now boasts 300 vendors with over 50,000 attendees!  Not too shabby you might say, as not only does it link the local community to the amazing food being created in the local area, but it provides upcoming artisans the opportunity to grow their financial and supporter base at minimal costs.  With such a following, Iso and his team now must comply with more stringent health regulations, however, it certainly is a testament for the need for the local community and their desire to be connected with their local food producers, and just how a small idea can generate significant momentum within a community.

The Wild Kitchen Dinners are a roving underground supper club, held in differing venues around the city and are essentially centered around a different, locally foraged ingredient.  They  too have been really successful and provide an interesting opportunity to highlight the importance of eating whole foods and a unique way of connecting the 'eater' with their natural surrounds.

The latest project ForageSF has taken on for themselves is the creation of a co-working space for food, called the Forage Kitchen.  Having recently raised over $150K from the community through a successful 'Kickstarter' campaign, the Forage Kitchen will be a place where food entrepreneurs can create and build their businesses, through shared kitchen spaces, office space, rental equipment and business support etc.  True to the ForageSF philosophy, the key point of difference will be that users will not be required to jump through typical regulatory hoops to use the space.   Instead a variety of options will be available, negating the need to sign a year long contracts, submit proof of liability insurance, and get catering permits.  Thus lowering the barriers to entry and making innovation in food a possibility.

Through ForageSF, Iso has certainly created an organisation that provides a platform to put the local food movement forward, and whilst it is a for profit business, I think it provides a great example of how for profit businesses can be working with the community around food.  I also think it provides food for thought around the power and ability of a fresh brand and a unique concept to generate interest around some really key food issues, such as the importance of eating locally and seasonally, sustainable and artisanal food production, eating fresh whole foods and encouraging creativity and innovation around food, its production and its distribution.

So, whilst I recognise there is a whole lot more I could have seen whilst in San Francisco, it was really nice to have some downtime.  It's certainly a place I'd like to return to as I hear it is very much the 'mecca' in terms of developing and delivering more local sustainable food systems.  However, I will probably make my way out to the regional areas to meet more of the producers behind this local movement.

www.foragesf.com
www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com

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